San Telmo, fire

The small trestle table has its hind legs propped up slightly to compensate for sitting in the gutter, the vendor has utilised a milk bottle crate as a seat and sits on a little patch on the footpath overlooking her wares. The next stall has a few jerry rigged boxes to serve as a fairly…

Buenos Aires

Leaving the quiet of Colonia de Sacramento by ferry was perhaps the most serene international departure I have ever had. There was no hustle or bustle, little in the way of a check in and no assigned seats on board the large passenger ferry, once ready to depart the boat simple floated towards another country,…

Colonia de Sacramento

Strolling along the malecon away from the old centre in the early evening significantly compensated me for choosing a hotel thirty minutes’ walk away. When clear I could see the city scape of Buenos Aires decorating the skyline as the long epic sunsets over the river, gave me a delightful vista on my walk, if…

True parrilla

Sitting at the end of the estancia’s ten seat dining table watching the fire burn in the custom built fire place was an experience I had hoped would happen. The fire wasn’t large and it was certainly confined to one end of the six foot space. The impressive racking that filled the remaining void of…

Estancia

Examples of the gaucho culture can be seen in the Uruguayan capital if you care to look for them, the design of the maté cups, the iconic representations of horse and rider, checked shirts and cowboy hats, not to mention the nation’s obsession with beef. I think it’s the proximity and Uruguayan affection for the…

Local beefs

One of the appeals of Montevideo for me is the lack of tourist attractions, it is a city where there is no need to create a list of things to see and so, it’s an easy going place where the joy is to explore, to sit, to watch and to relax. Sure there are only…

European-esque

There was no way I was going to jump straight back into a parrilla joint for my next meal experience, I understood I needed to soon enough, but with nearly 2 weeks in Uruguay I had to stick to my strategy. A strategy that is to avoid too many plain cooked parrilla meals while I…

Mercado de Puerto

Turning the corner from Calle Sarandi into the pedestrian Perez Castellano this car free street had already begun to look seedier around the edges, the facades less grand. The novelty of seeing Uruguayan walking around with their arms full of both a flask of hot water and a gourd style maté cup and metal straw…

Arrival

I’m glad I don’t read into omens, or else Montevideo would have been a completely different experience for me. The flight leaving Lima was delayed by 20 hours, cancelled in a rather spectacular fashion at three in the morning, the pilot having aborted take of while accelerating down the run way just after midnight. To…