Córdoba

Argentina’s second city isn’t a particularly compelling place, sure it’s an interesting city to spend some time, Argentina’s first university was built here, and littered around town there are some grand facades and many old university buildings to look at, a good free walking tour is available that helps to give some local context to…

Goloso

Argentina’s sweet heart is powered by two tooth numbing sweet items, representative of the two largest immigrant groups that settled the country, the Spanish and more recently the Italians. The Spanish brought dulce de leche with them at some point and the Argentinians have grabbed it, clasped it tightly to their chests and run with…

Grandma style

Intentional distressed walls and doors, classic original floors and simple hearty food designed to be shared communally, this restaurant is aiming for nostalgia with an Argentine country kitchen sort of feel. Part of the nostalgia feel of the place is lost on me, but I love the concept, the idea that everyone enjoys hearty simple…

Mendoza

The road through the vineyards is a dusty tan coloured, if I scuff my feet a little the light breeze whisked the ensuing scuffle away towards the vines nearby. The ground underneath the vines smells earthy and moist, the clumps of grass and rustic poles suspending the vines remind me that this vineyard is an…

Pan American cuisine

Sitting inside a restored traditional house in the Villa Crespo district of Buenos Aires I was pretty sure I had made a good choice for dinner. The napkins were well starched and folded crisply, the tables poorly lit and simply decorated, the walls were tastefully decorated with a few features to catch the eye. The…

Before arrival

Before I arrived in Argentina I had a very narrow view of Argentine food, my line of thought extended little beyond beef, empanadas and Malbec. Having spent only a few days here already I can extend that list to include milanesas, dulce de leche and even Argentine style pizzas to the list of foods I…

Bone in

Argentine waiters have an atrocious skill, an ability to almost completely ignore a customer, creating an opportunity for frustration within almost every meal experience. Coming from a non-tipping culture, the following expectation for a tip with each bill after poor service really rubs me the wrong way. Looking at this degree of ignorance as someone…

San Telmo, fire

The small trestle table has its hind legs propped up slightly to compensate for sitting in the gutter, the vendor has utilised a milk bottle crate as a seat and sits on a little patch on the footpath overlooking her wares. The next stall has a few jerry rigged boxes to serve as a fairly…

Buenos Aires

Leaving the quiet of Colonia de Sacramento by ferry was perhaps the most serene international departure I have ever had. There was no hustle or bustle, little in the way of a check in and no assigned seats on board the large passenger ferry, once ready to depart the boat simple floated towards another country,…

Colonia de Sacramento

Strolling along the malecon away from the old centre in the early evening significantly compensated me for choosing a hotel thirty minutes’ walk away. When clear I could see the city scape of Buenos Aires decorating the skyline as the long epic sunsets over the river, gave me a delightful vista on my walk, if…

True parrilla

Sitting at the end of the estancia’s ten seat dining table watching the fire burn in the custom built fire place was an experience I had hoped would happen. The fire wasn’t large and it was certainly confined to one end of the six foot space. The impressive racking that filled the remaining void of…

Estancia

Examples of the gaucho culture can be seen in the Uruguayan capital if you care to look for them, the design of the maté cups, the iconic representations of horse and rider, checked shirts and cowboy hats, not to mention the nation’s obsession with beef. I think it’s the proximity and Uruguayan affection for the…